St Curig’s Chapel, Capel Curig, Snowdonia, North Wales

First, you need to know that the imteresting B&B at St Curig’s is the home of bohemian aristocrat Lady Alice Douglas. Like her, it’s lovely but a little bit bonkers.

The charming Lady Alice Douglas has converted a sombre Victorian stone church into one the best places to stay in Snowdonia… or anywhere. It makes a great interesting retreat or escape for a short romantic break in the Welsh mountains. But you have to approach with an open mind.

Inside, Lady Alice made a bold open-plan conversion. You’ll mingle with her family amid the chapel’s original elegant arched windows, marble pillars and stained glass.

Excellent breakfast of fresh local ingredients in the communal kitchen dining room is a highlight. I’ve loved chatting to various colourful visitors here when I've stayed. There's a great atmosphere that's purely down to the Douglases.

The kitchen/lounge is modern and stylish and opens out under a stunning gilded mosaic domed ceiling, that seems like some misplaced Greek treasure… Apart from the fact that Alice has placed a pool table underneath it.

In fact, this dome was commissioned by William Sackville-West, and made by a Venetian whose work also graces the Albert Memorial, Houses of Parliament and the dome at St Pauls Cathedral.

It was taken over by Lady Alice, her family and their huge but docile dog Brecon, in 1998. Since then they have featured on several reality TV shows, including B&B Challenge. Her young daughter Hero became a celebrity playing her harp and singing on a TV talent show.

So don’t expect it to be like the Marriott. St Curig’s bedrooms have details like hand-carved four-posters and heated local slate floors but some don’t have wardrobes or tiny TVs. One has a stone pulpit in it.

Lady Alice’s colourful life includes being daughter of the Marquis of Queensbury, a TV actress, theatrical director, prison worker, celebrity journalist, national newspaper columnist and distant relative of Osama Bin Laden.  

Outside there’s a hot tub in the corner of the former churchyard that looks right up into the heart of the curve of peaks with Snowdon at its heart. Pen-y-Pas, the starting point of most paths up Snowdon is a few minutes away by car. Lady Alice will advise about which paths are best. If you’ve just walked Snowdon, or any of the surrounding peaks, the tub is the best way to relax.

For the less adventurous, easy forest paths start at the chapel door. Some even lead straight to a pub. It’s perfect for dinner.


Contact St Curig's here: st. curig's church