Travel writer Simon Heptinstall picks his favourite places to stay....

Gilpin Lodge Country House Hotel, Crook Road, Windermere, Cumbria, The Lake District



I stumbled into Gilpin Lodge Hotel one night after a long day photographing cars in the Lake District. I felt at home immediately.

Gilpin is a modernised but charming family-owned Victorian country house hotel and possibly the most relaxing and luxurious place to stay in England's Lake District.

It's main appeal is to those who love fine food but the location isn't bad either - the hotel stands in 20 acres of gorgeous gardens two miles above Windermere in the fells, but on the way to the M6 motorway, which is only 12 miles away.

My bedroom was fabulous and I had a tour - the others are great too. Some have private terraces, others their own garden hot-tubs. When I stayed I slept really well after a long exhilarating walk. The bed was supremely comfortable and I seem to be surrounded by acres of cushions and fine fabrics as if I'd collapsed in a soft furnishing shop.

I woke with a start. It was silent, totally silent. Then I staggered downstairs to discover one of the world’s great breakfasts.

The three-page menu included poached fruit compote in a bergamot, whisky and honey syrup, minute steak with sautéed onions, and foie gras with rosti potato. I opted for pear sorbet with pink champagne, then cheese-on-toast with apple and onion chutney, egg and bacon, followed by fresh croissants. It was the finest breakfast I’ve ever had.

“The last meal you have at a hotel is breakfast, you’ll remember it more than dinner,” explained Gilpin’s chef Chris Meredith, who appeared from the kitchen with his arm in plaster - the result of a mountain biking accident out on the hills.

Genial, shaven-headed Chris has won a Michelin star for the last four years. He has an interesting theory about his, and the Lakes’ success. “These Michelin judges can tell you whether the chef is happy or not. The food shows it. If an artist is stressed they’re not going to paint good pictures - it’s the same with food.

“My pleasure is in cooking not making money. I enjoy my time off here with the Lake District all around me. I’ve worked in London and that’s no way to spend your life. After work here I go biking with one of the gardeners and see 20 deer out on the fell. It’s an ideal place for my family, it’s where I’ve chosen to live. The Lakes are the inspiration for my cooking.”

Breakfast may have been great but dinner was fine too and the rest of the hotel just so comfortable and relaxing. I had work to do but I kept putting it off. I slumped into a soft armchair in the lounge by the fire and a pile of magazines... you're lucky I could get round to writing this review.

I like the fact that they say "no weddings" and "no conferences". I like the fact that the Cunliffe family hang their own family photos around on the walls. I like the vases of fresh flowers everywhere. I like the old traditional bedrooms and I like the new ones - not a cheap pastiche of Victoriana but striking modern minimalist architecture that's young and sexy. I'm struggling to find something bad to say about this place. There's no gym but you'll do loads of walking anyway - it's miles from the nearest shops or pubs but no-one in their right mind would come here without a car.

It's no good, sorry. I can't think of any major criticism. Gilpin is one of my all-time favourites.

Contact Gilpin Lodge Hotel: click here