The Swan Hellenic crewman who stole my brand new HTC Incredible S smartphone probably tossed it overboard soon after. The heat was suddenly on. He could lose his job.
When Swan Hellenic bosses realised that someone had stolen my phone they must have scoured the ship and given the staff the full Swannish Inquisition.
For Swan it was not just a slap in the face to one of their elderly and rich passengers but to a journalist who was about to write about their cruises for a newspaper and website with 72 million visitors. That's rather embarrassing to say the least.
But I reckon this minor travel incident is worth a blog. Not because I'm extremely irritated and inconvenienced. Losing hundreds of pounds worth of phone is bad for anyone. Losing a SIM card is bloomin' awkward too. But it's more interesting to the rest of you because it really highlights the reality of the upstairs/downstairs division on a cruise a ship.
Bloated on burgers
I mean the contrast between the wealthy westerners bloated on burgers staggering off to the slot machines and the poor Philipino servant who has to carefully knock on a whole corridor full of doors every night at 6pm to turn their bedding down and leave a corporate chocolate on their pillow. The contrast between the robotic smiles of well drilled staff who barrage you with "good morning sir" as you approach the breakfast bar and what they must really be thinking...
I had suspected Swan Hellenic's cruise would be a bit different. It's a small ship, attracting an exclusive crowd with brains and taste. It's expensive. Staff ratios are high. There's none of that disingenious gratuities system that supposedly rewards staff on other cruises. Swan simply charge you a lot and, you assume, pay their crew well from the proceeds.
But the reality was exposed suddenly when I lounged on the open deck, waiting for a taxi to take me to Bari airport. The Minerva was docked in Brindisi, all the passengers except those who could hardly walk had left on excursions. I'd had my four days and was flying back to write my review for the Mail on Sunday.
As I sat reading, one of the ship's maintenance men was fussing around my table. I didn't really notice what he was doing but was mildly irritated. Can't he see I'm trying to read? Doesn't he know who I am? I moved to another table. After a while I realised I'd left my phone and glasses case on the previous table. The glasses were still there, the phone had gone.
Jobless disgrace
It was worth about £400 but I see on ebay that you'll only get half that for a secondhand one. So the guy has risked his job for £200. For all I know that could be a month's money for him. A great bonus but not worth being sent home in jobless disgrace for. So it would have been safest to wait till dark and launch my one-week-old phone overboard...
After talking to a lot of the crew on cruise ships, it's common for them to have families somewhere back home in a third world country. They send a big chunk of their earnings back to families who are considered rather well-off in their communities. To be selected for a cruise-ship crew is thought to be really lucky. You've got it made.
Gold braid jobs
Yet in all my cruises I have never seen a westerner in one of those jobs. They're always in different uniforms, with epaulettes. They're the ones in charge. And you rarely see a third-worlder in one of those gold-braid jobs. Cruising is like the new colonialism. We're bringing them on, we're paying them well, they're better off with us helping them...
Well, sorry for my cultural squeamishness, but it always makes me feel uncomfortable. It's an extreme version of what you find in luxury hotels and secure resorts round the world. I can see the logic and how it happens but that's not really what travel should be about: travelling the world in a secure western bubble, powered by the menial efforts of people from the poor exotic countries. Swan Hellenic's (European) officers, bosses and PRs were aghast at the theft of my phone. It never happens on our cruises they gasp. Well, I'm surprised it doesn't happen more often.
If you've followed this story so far - reading my last two blogs below - you'll know I've been giving a detailed insight into one of the press trips I did earlier this year. It was journey to Sweden to cruise on the Gota Canal. My article has now been published in the Mail on Sunday and subsequently on the dailymail.co.uk website here: http://tiny.cc/gg9fw
Please feel free to read it but I don't get paid anything for it's appearance on the website... Haha, not that I'm bitter or anything. You won't know of course that my piece has been shortened and slightly changed by the subs and that the picture desk rejected all the photos I took in favour of some library shots.
The copy changes seem to be slightly toning down the copy, especially taming my description of just how tiny the cabin was. The Mail on Sunday increasingly has the policy of being positive about travel, not in an advertorial way, but just trying to inspire readers to take holidays ( and doubtless to respond to the travel adverts in those pages).
The significance of the photos isn't so much the damage to my limited photographic ego, it's that I get paid extra if they use any of my shots. This can make the difference between the job being worth doing or not. So I try hard to take shots that they will find difficult not to use. In this case there were plenty of me in and around the boat and some of me demonstrating the diminutive nature of the cabin (ie: touching all four walls at once). Somehow they've resisted them this time and it means the job was borderline profitable. Nice trip, interesting memories but hardly a great career step.
Now I'm back in my swivel office chair (Ebay £3) at my lovely old oak desk (£250 from a junk shop in Kent) in my newly refurbished office shed in the garden of my family home in Wiltshire…
This, not the great world out there, is where the real business of being a travel writer happens. I don't make a penny out on the road, it all happens here at my desk with a furrowed brow, mug of Barleycup and a flapjack.
At my desk is where I contact people who are going to pay me and keep in touch with Editors and organisations. This is where I write the pieces that are the sacks of coal of this travel mine.
If you remember I'd persuaded the Mail on Sunday to commission me to go to Sweden to write a piece on the Gota Canal. I've done the trip, kept my expenses as low as I could, taken as many notes and photos as I'll need. Today I've taken the kids to school and now I'm sitting here with a pile of receipts, brochures and maps tipped from my backpack onto the desk.
Now comes the tricky part…
I have to sit here are wrote a 1000-word article that's good enough for the six million readers of the Mail on Sunday and the countless millions on the Mail's website, one of the biggest news websites in the world. It has to be written in their style and tell the story with humour, information and colour. It needs a beginning and an end. It needs to done as well as I can do.
I always think anyone can wander round looking at things having a nice time but this is where travel writing becomes hard.
I usually write without reference to my notes - only looking up to check the occasional fact or quote. The important stuff is firmly lodged in my brain already. In fact one of the writing methods I'd use when facing a blank screen with an unproductive imagination is to think of going into the pub and telling someone about the trip. What would you say first? What's the funniest or most amazing bit of the trip?
I used to use that method to teach young trainee news reporters when I edited newspapers. WHen faced with a notebook full of your research and a head buzzing with different angles, imagine rushing home and telling your best friend what happened. It's a simple trick for organising the information in your head. Well, it works for some people…
Anyway, as well as that prioritising of information, I've also got to bear in mind certain stereotypes, puns and jokes that are the lubricating oil of all the information you have to pass on. Stereotypes for this Sweden trip would be trying to find a link to Abba, Volvo or even herrings. Puns could mean something about "got to go to Gota" and jokes could compare the tiny 50-passenger Diana steamship with my last cruise aboard a 3000-passenger mega cruise ship.
I've been starting the day looking at a blank screen (or piece of typewriter paper) for 30 years so this has become an automatic process by now. I still agonise and dither but I know that an angle and intro will come within an hour and then the copy will flow quickly. It will usually be written, revised, fine-tuned and sent in a day. Look out for the result in the Mail on Sunday or at dailymail.co.uk… tell me what you think.
Sitting at a window seat on an SAS flight from Stockholm Arlanda back to Heathrow.
The last blog gave you some background on how a travel trip comes into being. I'm writing this one as I head home from the trip, so I'll give you some idea of how it went and what happens now.
I'm feeling a sense of achievement because I managed to keep my incidental bill on the Gota Canal cruise down to zero. That meant not a single drink with any meal or at either of the bars. Not even tea and coffee. Two days of tap water.
But I'm cross with myself for getting my currency calculations wrong and buying a wonderful melon and blueberry ice cream cone in Stockholm, not for the bargain 60p I'd thought, but for the more Swedish price of £6. My only other expenses were a small bottle of water for £2.20 and a 'gourmet kebab' from a street seller for £6 that turned out to be tasty but mostly the pitta was filled with mashed potato.
You might be thinking, yes, yes, but what about Sweden, the Gota Canal, the experience? Well that was all much as I'd expected from my research and the hundreds of similar trips I've been on before.
It took hours of complicated travelling to get to the start of the canal cruise, on board I discovered I was the only English speaker, the cabins were the smallest I have ever seen, the Gota Canal was pretty without ever being stunning, after a while I started feeling like a prisoner, I didn't sleep well in the stuffy tiny cabin, the food was good, everyone else seemed to drink enormous amounts of the alcohol. One old chap sat and chatted to me for a couple of hours on wicker chairs on the aft deck and ploughed through two bottles of wine at £70 each.
The Swedes love their Gota Canal, its history, the preserved pristine nature of the locks and buildings along the banks and the efficiency of the staff operating them. They all downed schnapps on the first day after a rousing drinking song.
So it's an interesting snapshot of Swedish lifestyle. It's a relaxing genteel cruise in a period boat with appropriately period facilities (ie no TV, radio, and shared bathrooms the size of a wardrobe - oh and there weren't any wardrobes).
I'll see. For now, i'm just looking forward to getting home, relaxing my financial constraints and maybe even treating myself to a beer tonight.
I'm sitting in one of the cheapest seats (with my back to the window facing the toilet door) on a local commuter train crowded with commuters and students travelling between Stockholm and Norrkoping at 6.50am on a Monday morning. It's another day in the life of a travel writer and I wanted to explain a bit more of how this mysterious job works.
I'm fulfilling a commission for the Mail on Sunday newspaper/website to write a piece on the traditional steam boat trip on the Gota Canal that links the Swedish capital with Gothenburg in the south. It's a new angle for a cruise holiday piece.
I know the MoS run a lot of cruise reviews because they are such big advertisers. So I have been pitching the Travel Editor and Deputy Travel Editor for about 18 months with alternative cruise ideas that they might take and I would like to do.
I wasn't that keen on spending a week plodding along the Rhine with a load of pensioners doing communal singing and talking about the war so I spent a lot of time researching cruises in North America, like the paddle boats on the Mississippi or the cruises along the St Lawrence seaway and into the Great Lakes. They came to nothing but this idea gradually came to fruition.
Brief pause there while I peer over the shoulder of the bloke next to me to see a particularly scenic view of trees water and boats (typical Sweden view) racing past the window.
Okay, I got the commission in the form of an email from Travel Editor Frank Barrett in January. It was simply him saying "okay" to the idea I'm sent him by email. I'd chosen my timing carefully. The Mail on Sunday travel department had just held their great Christmas party at a swanky London Hotel.
I'd been there in my ironed shirt trying to stay sober as minor celebrities like the Hamiltons, Nigel Planer and Annika Rice got most people's attention. Afterwards I'd emailed to say 'thank you'… and then 'here is an idea for a piece' at the same time. It worked.
Now it's June. It took six months to get the trip organised. I'd contacted the London agency who handle Southern Sweden's PR. They arranged the canal cruise and transport to and from Stockholm (like this little two-storey train I'm on now), but passed me onto the press officer at Visit Sweden who provided flights and a night's accommodation in a hotel in Stockholm at each end of the cruise.
The rest was up to me: getting to Heathrow, airport parking, food and drink. There's no free dinner at the hotel and I'll hardly be able to eat out in Stockholm, it's so pricey. I'll stuff myself on the free hotel breakfast and eat fruit and flapjacks for the rest of the day.
So with the pitching, researching, arranging, preparing and writing and photography this simple job will add up to more than a week's work. Nice work, but still work. If I'm very careful I can keep extra costs down to around £100 for the four-day trip.
That's about 15% of the fee. If the incidental costs are any higher you have to start questioning whether it's worth doing the job. On the other side of that there's always a chance of selling a spin-off feature although the hotel last night didn't seem a very promising subject. Yet, as the man next to me with his ear-phones-in falls asleep, and I've no idea where in Sweden I am at the moment, I'm rather enjoying myself….
In my first year as a travelwriter I went to 27 countries. I learned pretty quickly that you can't just take every trip you are offered.
In that first year I saw a lot (and ate and drank a lot) but had no time to research the trips properly or find outlets to sell the stories. I spent a fortune on airport car parks, taxis and bottled water. I soon got bored with days spent at airports, on ferries and in tour buses.
It's clear that too much travel is as bad as not enough.
So now I've learned to do just what I need and want to do. That means snapping up well-paid commissioned trips or going to places that I really want to go. But not wasting my weeks on trips back to the over-publicised destinations that everyone has read a hundred times already.
I'm still waiting to go to Japan, Tahiti and I can't wait to go back to Patagonia, but I will never again spend ten days by myself in a cheap tourist hotel in Magalluf Mallorca just to see what it's like.
What this means is that every single day I have the odd experience of turning down travel PR people offering me free trips to places all over the world. Today, for example, a wet Monday in May, I've politely declined visits to Egypt, Scotland, the Lake District and Florida Keys.
I could spend the whole next month taking up those offers, earn no money and spend dreary hours on motorways and in airports in the process.
Instead I'm waiting for a trip to Sweden in a couple of weeks which will end up in the Mail on Sunday and thetraveleditor.com/. That'll do for now.
I'm reporting this, not to show off - after any travelwriters will be getting the same offers as me - but to show what a strange view of travel us professionals get.
While most people dream for weeks of their next trip, we end up almost begrudging the whole process. It's work, nice work, but still work.
After a while even the smartest hotels and weirdest landscapes can seem like another day spent clutching a notebook, asking how you spell people's names and reminding yourself to take photos.
So for you, the reader, there's a good side to all this: jaded old travel hacks like me are unlikely to be bowled over by some average new hotel in Tuscany or another bunch of palm trees round a swimming pool in the Caribbean. We've seen it all before and know there are a hundred others just down the road.
So when we do rant about how good something is - then it REALLY has made an impression.
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